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Pinellas County, the Anclote River

Tarpon Springs, Florida: a Greek village on the sponge docks

Tarpon Springs was built by Greek divers who came for the sponges in the Anclote River waters, and the food never left the old country. Here is what to eat along the docks, why January 6 matters here, and a souvlaki to grill at home.

Chicken on a kettle grill at a truck tailgate with folding chairs and Mobile Bay Mustard BBQ

The Sponge Capital of the World

According to Visit St. Pete Clearwater, the county tourism office, Tarpon Springs was founded in the early 1900s by Greek sponge divers who came to harvest the natural sea sponges growing in the waters off the Anclote River. Their descendants stayed. The city now has the largest Greek community per capita in the United States, and people still call it the Sponge Capital of the World.

The Sponge Docks line Dodecanese Boulevard, a walkable strip where bouzouki music drifts out of the doorways. Boats still take visitors out on short sponging expeditions with a diver in traditional gear, and afterward you can pick up a sponge or two at the shops along the street. The Greektown Historic District and the Tarpon Springs Historical Museum fill in the rest of the story.

Then there is lunch. The county guide sends visitors to Mykonos for flaming saganaki cheese, gyros and grilled octopus, to Hellas for dolmades, moussaka and a bakery case of baklava, melomakarona and diples, and to Mama's Greek Cuisine for spanakopita. On the water, Rusty Bellies serves local stone crab and scallops while the sponge boats pass. Tarpon Springs Distillery makes ouzo, and Sponge City Brewing pours beer a few steps away.

Three miles offshore, Anclote Key Preserve State Park covers more than 400 acres of islands, white sand and an old lighthouse. It is reached only by boat, and some of the tours leave right from the docks.

Epiphany at Spring Bayou

Every January 6, St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral marks Epiphany, the feast of Christ's baptism. After the morning liturgy a procession of clergy and faithful walks to Spring Bayou. The Archbishop blesses the waters, a dove is released, and a cross is thrown into the bayou. Young Orthodox men aged 16 to 18 dive in after it, and the one who brings it up is considered blessed for the year.

The cathedral says the community has held the cross dive for close to a century. One past retriever, Nikitas Lulias, came up with the cross in 1974 and later became Archbishop of Thyateira and Great Britain. At the end of the service the faithful take home sanctified water and set it aside for the year, to use as a blessing in times of illness or trouble.

What is in season

Tarpon Springs through the year

Harvest rules come from the FWC. Tarpon Springs sits on a regional line: the FWC counts the Anclote River in its Big Bend region for snook and trout, while the coast just south falls in its Tampa Bay region.

What is in season in Tarpon Springs, by month
WhatWhenMonths
Epiphany and the cross dive at Spring BayouIn season nowJanuary 6
Stone crab claw season in state watersIn season nowOctober 15 to May 1 Official dates for Stone crab claw season in state waters (opens in a new tab)
Snook open, one fish from 28 to 33 inchesIn season nowMarch, April and September to November Official dates for Snook open, one fish from 28 to 33 inches (opens in a new tab)
Spotted seatrout open in the Big Bend region, 15 to 19 inch slotIn season nowAll year
Bay scallops in the Pasco zone, which includes the Anclote RiverIn season nowSummer, when open Official dates for Bay scallops in the Pasco zone, which includes the Anclote River (opens in a new tab)
Sponge boat tours and the Greek kitchens on Dodecanese BoulevardIn season nowAll year

Festivals and events

The Tarpon Springs date to know

Epiphany is a fixed feast, so the date does not move. Service times are posted by the cathedral each winter. Dates update every month: confirmed means the organizers posted it, expected means it follows the usual pattern.

The next twelve months in Tarpon Springs

  1. Oct2026Nothing on the calendar
  2. NovNothing on the calendar
  3. DecNothing on the calendar
  4. Jan20276 January: Epiphany Celebration and Cross Dive, confirmed
  5. FebNothing on the calendar
  6. MarNothing on the calendar
  7. AprNothing on the calendar
  8. MayNothing on the calendar
  9. JunNothing on the calendar
  10. JulNothing on the calendar
  11. AugNothing on the calendar
  12. SepNothing on the calendar

From the lineup

What we would bring to a Greek cookout

Greek grilling leans on lemon, garlic and oregano. These three fit right in.

RiverKingz All Purpose Rub

Mild, 4 oz, $9

Garlic led, deeply savory and low in salt. It works with lemon and oregano instead of fighting them.

Knock Your Sauce Off

Some Heat, 8 fl oz, $12

Red fresno, roasted garlic, guajillo, honey and lime. Brush it on grilled chicken in the last minute for a sticky, bright finish.

Port A Shrimp Shack

Some Heat, 3.5 oz, $9

Citrus, celery and coriander. Good dry on grilled Gulf shrimp served with lemon and a Greek salad.

Cook it at home

Lemon and oregano chicken souvlaki

Skewers of marinated chicken are a staple of every Greek kitchen on the docks. Our version keeps the lemon and oregano and adds a garlic rub and a honey glaze at the very end.

What you need

  • 2 lb boneless chicken thighs, cut in 1 1/2 inch pieces
  • 1 tbsp RiverKingz All Purpose Rub
  • 3 tbsp olive oil, juice of 1 lemon and 2 tsp dried oregano
  • Knock Your Sauce Off, for brushing
  • Pita, tzatziki, sliced tomato and red onion
  • Metal skewers, or wooden ones soaked in water

How it goes

  1. Toss the chicken with RiverKingz, olive oil, lemon juice and oregano. Refrigerate for 1 to 4 hours.
  2. Thread the chicken onto skewers, leaving a little space between pieces so the heat reaches every side.
  3. Grill over medium high heat, turning every few minutes, for 10 to 12 minutes, until the edges char and the thickest piece reads 165F.
  4. In the last minute, brush the skewers lightly with Knock Your Sauce Off and turn once so the honey sets without burning.
  5. Slide the chicken into warm pita with tzatziki, tomato and onion, and squeeze more lemon over the top.
Worth knowing. Thighs stay juicy on a hot grill where breast meat dries out. If you use breast, pull it right at 165F and rest it five minutes.

Another one from our kitchen: Knock Your Sauce Off Wings

Questions

Questions about Tarpon Springs

Why is Tarpon Springs called the Sponge Capital of the World?

Greek sponge divers founded the town in the early 1900s to harvest natural sponges off the Anclote River, and the Sponge Docks on Dodecanese Boulevard still run sponge boat trips and sell sponges today.

When is Epiphany in Tarpon Springs?

Every January 6. The day starts at St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral and moves to Spring Bayou for the blessing of the waters and the cross dive.

Who can dive for the cross?

Young Orthodox Christian men between 16 and 18, according to St. Nicholas Cathedral. The diver who retrieves the cross is considered blessed for the year.

What should I eat at the Tarpon Springs Sponge Docks?

Greek classics: saganaki, gyros, grilled octopus, dolmades, moussaka and spanakopita, then baklava or melomakarona from a bakery case. Local stone crab is on the waterfront menus in season.

Do you ship to Tarpon Springs?

Yes. We ship anywhere in the U.S. Orders go out within two business days, and shipping is free over $45.

Run a shop, market or kitchen in Tarpon Springs? Carry JollyGringo'z by the case. Tell us about the shop and the price sheet, the case packs and a sample bottle come straight back.

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